Saturday, November 16, 2013

Let´s talk about FOOD!

If you know me at all, you know how much I love to eat. And you know how much I love to try new foods. One thing I have found I can say with all certainty is that I am in LOVE with the food of Spain. The rituals Spaniards have surrounding food are different than I am used to, and their attitude regarding what they eat, how much they eat, and when they eat it is one I can respect and learn from.

Small disclaimer: this post contains some pretty large generalizations, both of people from Spain and the United States. I do not believe what is said in this post to hold true for all those who fall under my generalizations and hope that I don't offend anyone. My thoughts are just that- my thoughts which arise from only my observations.

First things first- when eating with Nacho´s family, I am fed like a queen. Nacho´s mom is an amazing chef and I try to show my respect by finishing every plate that´s put before me. They are happy that I am not a picky eater, and because of that I am trying as many new things as I can. I am, without fail, at their doorstep every weekend with an empty stomach and a smile. They're so good to me.

So, let´s talk about timing. Morning- you wake up, you´re tired, you have a coffee. Here in Spain you need to ease into your mornings- never do anything too quickly. Usually, a coffee (which is much smaller than those in the US, a couple ounces at most, but strong) is sufficient to hold me for a while. And later, around mid-morning when I am hungry, I have a bigger breakfast- which they call a merienda (snack). At school, I love to order un pincho de tortilla- Spanish egg omelette with potato. But a famous breakfast here is a toast spread with the juice of a tomato, a little olive oil and salt. Or maybe a toast with jamon and olive oil. Then in the afternoon, around 2-3pm (or 4pm for me, when I get home from work) you have a big lunch. For lunch there are always two plates, first usually a soup or salad of some sort, and the second, some kind of meat. It is also quite common to have wine or beer with lunch. Dessert is fruit, then coffee, and if you´re lucky enough to have the time for it, a siesta. At first it was difficult for me to get used to eating such a big meal in the middle of the day. But now that I´ve gotten used to the routine, it makes sense that you eat your biggest meal earlier rather than later. You take a break from your busy day, you split it in two. And taking this much time to eat, to rest and relax, actually makes me more productive later in the day. I find myself working/being productive until 9 or ten at night, then I start thinking about dinner. Sometimes, to hold you until dinner you have a merienda around 5 or 6, which is usually something sweet (churros con chocolate! I have never drank thicker chocolate, it is divine!). Much later you have dinner, which is much smaller than lunch, around 9 or 10. Dinner may seem late, but people are usually working until around 8 in the evening.

Attitudes about drinking alcohol here are also different. It is more common to have drinks earlier in the day or throughout the day (although a drink is never served without a little something to eat). One thing I love- when pouring liquor for your drink, the bartenders wait for you to tell them when to stop pouring. I flipped out the first time I saw this. What also made me happy is that everyone drinks their gintonics the way I like them- about 40/60 gin/tonic ;) Another drink I love is a clara- beer with lemon fanta. Yum. Ok, drinking is not all we do over here I swear! But pleasure seems to be the key- people are driven to eat and drink whatever they want in the moment they want it, but only very rarely in excess. This sounds like a simple statement, an easy one to follow. But in fact, it appears to me to be an art- a difficult one to master for an American like myself. But by not limiting yourself from that which you want, your body eventually knows what it needs. And I know never to deny myself, say, oil or sugar or wine if that is what I want (and believe me there is no end to the high-calorie spread of choices here), but also am learning to understand how much is enough, and excess is never good.
Rabo de Toro- Bull tail- so good!

Tapas and beer and a football match

Figs! The perfect dessert.

Ciruelas- small plums


Boquerones- yummy fish


And of course.. JAMON

Who wouldn't want to have a coffee with this guy ;)


Paella with chicken

Master Chef Nachy- cooking me salmon!

My attempt at stuffed eggplant

Pincho de tortilla y cafe cortado en el instituto

Stuffed tomatoes

All the nieces and nephews of Nacho had a Halloween/birthday party. The food was delicious!

The best jamon I've ever had

Jamon y queso at a jamon exposition we stumbled upon

Another exposition- this time olive oil. Free tapas <3

Monday, November 4, 2013

El Escorial

The other weekend, Nacho and I took a day-trip northwest of the city to a small town with big cultural significance called El Escorial. The day was drizzly and a little cold, but in a way, the weather helped create a pensive and tranquil tone to our excursion. We took our time touring the monastery and, in an attempt to take something away from the history surrounding us, discussed how life would be at this address so long ago. The afternoon was spent sauntering over the wet cobblestones, running from store to store if the rain came down too hard, but absorbing much more history and culture than water.

This one I took
I am lucky in that Nacho's dad has a passion for history and religion, as well as story-telling. My lunches at the Casal's are jam-packed with history, and I know my sightseeing would would mean half as much as it does without these lessons.
This one I didn't take.. a bird's eye view of the enormous monastery
So long story short- I learned that the monastery was also a royal palace, and in the 16th and 17th centuries, it held the power of the Spanish Monarchy and also the Roman Catholic Religion, a decision made by Phillip II of Spain. The architect of El Escorial was Juan Bautista de Toledo, who also worked in Italy for Michelangelo and on St. Peter's Basilica of Rome (and whose home-turned-museum I toured while in Toledo this past Christmas).


There was a wedding!





The sun came out on the drive home :)
It was nice to get away from work and the business of the city. Next day-trip: La Granja!

Wednesday, October 30, 2013

It's all fun and games...

Until Monday morning when you have to go to work. :/

So, what is allowing me to stay legally in this country for 10 months is a job through the Ministry of Education of Spain. I am working at two secondary 'institutos' in Valdemoro- a town about 25 minutes south of Madrid. A secondary institute is pretty much like a high school. The students range from 12 to 18 years old, and their English levels vary from absolutely no English to fluent. So as you can imagine, teaching can be quite a challenge. And everyday I am challenged. Some days, I feel rewarded by the learning exchange and understanding I help to foster. Many times the students are actually interested in what I have to say, they ask questions and maybe even learn something! Other days, I feel so exhausted and hopeless, not only with English language education, but with the entire future of the world- left in the hands of these undeserving, careless teenagers. It's an emotional roller coaster.


In resume, my day ranges from screaming at 12 year olds to stay quiet and in their seats (even if they could understand what I was saying, they wouldn't listen), to having pleasant English conversations discussing, say, politics, law, healthcare, etc. And also an hour and a half commute by bus to Valdemoro and then back again to Madrid- which 90% of the time I spend dead-to-the-world asleep.

In the beginning, I was nervous about my lack of qualification and experience teaching English as a second language. I very quickly realized that my teaching skills easily take the back burner to behavioral and classroom management skills. In a way, my short patience has helped me to control the classroom. But some days it feels hopeless. The students don't care, don't listen, and don't want to learn. Teacher burnout has completely infected both schools, and I was initially shocked at the levels of despondence from my coworkers. But my amateur judgments of my burnt-out, exhausted, and most times apathetic co-workers have been replaced with understanding, empathy and forgiveness. My eyes have been opened to the difficulties of teaching in an under-resourced school under an education system which is being disputed by all citizens of the country. (Just last week I arrived to school to find no one in the building- apparently students and teachers were striking a new set of laws passed which raised tuition and added more standardized tests nation-wide). So, in many ways, the large language and cultural barrier aside, the job is difficult.

Thankfully, I only work until 2:30pm Monday through Thursday!! At first glance, this sounds pretty awesome. It was awesome, until I started to see my money disappearing left and right- groceries, rent, utilities, transport, it is impossible to live in the city with only a part time job. So, Nacho helped me to place announcements online for individual English classes and tutoring. Because of the crisis, Spain is responding with a MAJOR push in investment in the English language. The need for native English teachers is overwhelming, and I received dozens of responses after day one of my ads- ranging from parents of three year olds to adults to companies wanting to teach business English to their workers.

So it's been a hectic few working weeks, and I am still working out the kinks in my schedule. Although my job at the schools is only part-time, energy-wise I feel as though I work overtime every week. I come home exhausted. And in a sleep-deprived stupor I shovel in a late lunch and head back out to start evening classes. Some of these are enjoyable, some are monotonously boring, pretty much depends on the student. I spend time working at different academies, and also go to peoples homes. All in all it is interesting and fun. I think once I get used to preparing for the classes and finding where they are, it will become even more enjoyable. I will get used to my schedule and it will become easier.

Slowly but surely I am making my way in the city- earning my stay and learning how to get around. I spend about 5 hours a day commuting on buses, trains and the metro- so I've been reading a lot (when I'm not shamelessly asleep)! In all honesty, many days I feel as though I am just keeping my head above water. I come home around 9pm to have dinner, and then I have to prepare for my classes for the next day. Any any free time I have I try to spend absorbing the amazing opportunities I have outside my door and spending time with Nacho and his family and friends. It's a lot, but it's amazing and fun.
The CaixaForum Vertical Garden

I am happy to be challenged everyday, and I am happy to be busy and with a lot of opportunity to earn my stay. And without Nacho's support and help every step of the way I wouldn't be able to do any of it. Thanks for reading my complain-y work post- I will try not to make too many of this kind. :) XOXO to my family back home!

Friday, October 25, 2013

Hello! It's been too long!

I'm sorry to the very few of you who check in on me via my blog. I have neglected you and there is no excuse. Well, there kind of is- I have been SO busy these days!! But busy is good, and now that it has been over a month, I am slowly getting the hang of balancing multiple jobs, commuting to and from those jobs, and attempting a new social life as well.
A picture I took looking Southwest toward my home from a cafeteria on the top floor of El Corte Ingles (a big store like Macy's)
Soo, where to begin. Let me tell you a bit about my apartment. In my first week here Nachy and I were strolling, looking up to the balconies of the beautiful, old buildings which line the tiny streets that weave through the city, for signs which read "se aquila," (for rent). We stumbled upon a rather new looking building, close to the center of the city but a little farther south, with multiple rooms for rent. The street is a dead end, (which means less noise!), and is surrounded by a small park, and is 4 min from the metro. Turns out the building has been around since the 1800's, but has recently been completely renovated. So I am now the proud renter of a furnished studio apartment, completely new with tremendously tall ceilings and brand new appliances. And thanks to Nachy, the rent was negotiated from 650€ down to 500€ a month. Although it's a studio, it feels spacious because of the high ceilings. I have a pull-out sofa and also a queen sized bed and still feel as though I have plenty of space. I am so happy with my new home and its location! I live in Puerto de Toledo (see picture from previous post). It's a wonderful area of the city in my opinion, filled with lively cafes and bars, parks, markets, and, because there is a University campus in Puerto de Toledo, plenty of young people.


A full-sized fridge AND an oven!! My only two requirements! :)


Pretty standard bathroom.. lighting is perfect for applying make-up ;)

After signing the lease


Our first meal in my new apartment! ¡Que Americano!

Cafe- 5 min walk 
The very large Church- 5 min walk

So, slowly but surely I am knowing my 'barrio.' There is a rastro (outdoor market) every Tuesday and Sunday, and I am about ten minutes from this beautiful park pictured below, which contains Rio Manzanares (the river of Madrid). Coming from the country, I am not used to so many options right outside my door and constantly in reach. The sights, smells, tastes and sounds can be overwhelming, but mostly in a way that enriches my mind and body, and makes me feel young and alive.

Taken during an evening run

Friday, October 11, 2013

I have internet in my apartment!

I have been neglecting my blog! I'm sorry, it took weeks to get settled into my apartment and have internet installed. More posts to come!
Puerta de Toledo- my new home